Part of Healthy Summer Eating!

May is an odd time of year, healthwise. New Year’s resolutions are long forgotten, and if you’re like me, you probably spent the bulk of the long winter watching movies and feasting on grilled cheese.  And yet, with summer looming around the corner, and swimsuit season with it, the rush to get fit is back upon us.

I’ve noticed that cheese is always one of the first things people cut out of their diet when they’re looking to trim down, and this makes me very sad.  True, cheese has a lot of calories and fat per serving, and, like most foods, it can be unhealthy if overindulged.  But when eaten mindfully and in moderation, it will not wreck your diet, and it can actually add to your overall health.

Cheese is actually full of important nutrients, most notably protein, which, along with the cheese’s fat, helps you feel full.  In his book Mastering Cheese, Max McCalman points out that “if you compare a 3.5 ounce chunk of a hard, aged cheese such as Cheddar or Emmentaler to an equivalent amount of chicken eggs, the cheese contains about twice as much protein and one quarter the cholesterol.”¹  Cheese is also an excellent source of calcium, as well as other important vitamins and minerals.  Because cheese essentially takes all the elements of milk that are good for you and concentrates them, it gives you a lot of nutritional bang for your buck, and gives your body a head start on digestion.

But, you might be asking, couldn’t you just play it safe and enjoy cheese guilt-free by choosing the low-fat varieties?  Well, not exactly.  According to nutritionist Alan Aragon, “The combination of protein and fat in regular, full-fat cheese is very satiating. As a result, eating full-fat cheese holds your appetite at bay for hours, and I’ve found that it cuts down my clients’ food intake at subsequent meals.”²  Not to mention, restricting yourself to only low-fat and fat-free cheese pretty much limits your options to string cheese and shrink-wrapped blocks.  Those are tasty enough, but just think of all the amazing, lovingly crafted cheeses you’d miss out on as a result.

As with nearly all foods, though, the key here is moderation.  If you eat an entire block of Cheddar, any health benefits you might have received will be canceled out by the fact that you just ate an entire block of Cheddar.  Simply be mindful of portion size—an ounce is perfectly reasonable, and it’s equivalent in size to about two dominoes.  No, it’s not a feast-worthy portion, but it’s also not so measly as to make you feel deprived.  You can make it go even further by pairing it with other healthy foods; a couple slices of cheese, a crispy apple, and some crusty bread make an excellent snack, or even a light lunch.

I hope you’ll keep cheese in your life no matter what your current eating plan.  You can easily enjoy all the cheese world has to offer and still keep an eye on your health by sticking to reasonable portions and saving the really cheesy indulgences for special occasions.

Jesi Dunaway, Cheesemonger
Savenor’s Boston

1. Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maitre Fromager by Max McCalman, Clarkson Potter Publishers

2. Men’s Health: “The Health Benefits of Eating Full-Fat Cheese” by Denny Watkins.

Bring your knives (big and small), scissors, paper cutter and hand gardening tools and CASH   Or, talk to her about coming to your house and doing everything for you on-site

Look for the big white van in the lot next to our store and leave some time to pick up fantastic meats that you will slice like a pro!

Goat cheeses are especially good at this time of year, because the goats whose milk will be made into cheese are venturing out into

pastures for the first time since the winter.  Their milk will carry the flavors of the fresh grasses and flora they consume into the resulting cheese.  While there’s no shortage of artisan goat cheeses to be found at this time of year, some of my very favorite chevre comes from Lazy Lady Farm in Westfield, Vermont.  This farm consistently puts out tasty, unique, and creatively named cheeses (many of them politically inspired).  And, impressively, their entire farm is run off the grid; all of their power is supplied by solar panels and a wind generator (and a small generator for backup when conditions are tough)

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We just received some of Lazy Lady’s first chevres of the season.  The go-to Lazy Lady cheese, which we’ll carry for most of the season, is Sweet Emotions, a mixture of goat milk and cow cream; it’s perfect for those who are a little wary of the goat cheese tang.  The cheese is creamy, rich, and buttery, and it gets softer and runnier the longer it ages.  It’s a great alternative to Camembert, and thanks to its petite size– about six to eight ounces per button– it’s a perfect treat to share with a friend.

Lazy Lady Thin Red Line

We also currently have The Thin Red Line, an all-goat cheese with a tiny layer of smoked paprika running through the middle, hence the name.  This is one of my favorite cheeses of any season; it’s beautiful to look at, not only because of the bold red stripe, but because of the ash-dusted rind and the creamy layer right underneath.  The flavor of the paprika is

also surprisingly bold, given how little of the spice is used.  It imparts a rich, savory flavor to what would otherwise be a sweet, tangy cheese.

Perhaps my favorite of all is Trickle Down, which should be coming in any day now.  It’s similar in shape and general appearance to The Thin Red Line, but instead of paprika, this one is infused with fresh ginger and poppy seeds, an unlikely-sounding but absolutely delicious combination.  I may or may not have eaten an entire 8 ounce wheel by myself and called it dinner.

Beyond fresh new cheeses, spring also has another food-centric connotation for me: we are now entering the last few weeks before it becomes too hot out to turn on our ovens.  Personally, I subsist all summer long on salads, because I can’t bear to turn on any heating source in my stifling kitchen, so May represents my last chance to get some cooking in.  Fortunately, it’s an ideal time to cook, given all the fresh spring produce that’s showing up in the store this month.  On this week’s agenda: asparagus soup with creme fraiche; ramp and chorizo quesadillas, spinach, bacon, and artichoke stuffed mushrooms, and definitely this asparagus and fiddlehead risotto.

Happy spring, and happy eating!

Savenor’s has a variety of game meats in stock, in small portions for the adventurous connoisseur. From antelope steaks to flaky rattlesnake filets to pre-skewered bison kebabs, it’s a carnivore’s candy shop.

It never hurts to ask the butchers for your favorite cut in the species you want to try. They suggest seasoning a new meat with nothing more than salt and pepper, in order to enjoy the raw flavor.

At first bite, you might be surprised at how familiar you find the taste. Venison is reminiscent of New Zealand lamb, for instance. Pete, one of our butchers, swears up and down that iguana, an invasive species becoming popular in Puerto Rico cuisine, “tastes like turkey.” He advises that you sear it in your hottest pan.

Follow the lead of other cultures and traditional preparations. After dredging and deep frying turtle or alligator Cajun style, accompany it with coleslaw.

For those who insist on something tamer, Wagyu might be more to your taste. Ours is Australian, in the style of the illustrious Kobe breed from Japan, has significantly more marbling. But don’t let the fat scare you off, since there’s a higher ratio of healthy monounsaturated to saturated and a greater concentration of Omega 3 fatty acids.

Lead butcher Dave says that Wagyu is a whole different animal on the grill. He recommends covering the patties, since the flammable fat tends to detonate like a warhead of deliciousness. Wagyu franks are a favorite of our crew, swelling to twice their size when cooked.  Topped with sauerkraut and spicy mustard, it only takes one to hit the spot.

Grilling is more forgiving to those not wanting to overcook game meat, so summer’s a great time to find a new favorite . Keep in mind that venison and kangaroo are significantly leaner than Wagyu or Archer Angus. Add fat by topping your patties with tallow, or wrap your steak in bacon –obviously the wild boar variety. And yes, we have that in stock too. Come on in and embark on an epicurean safari!

You might try making this with Jesi’s suggestion, Wookey Hole Cave Aged Cheddar from Ford Farms in England, or Patrick’s choice, Vermont’s Cabot Clothbound Cheddar. And since April is Grilled Cheese Month, Welsh Rabbit could be viewed as an Open-Face Grilled Cheese. Call it what you will — great cheese and a classic Welsh Rabbit recipe will warm your heart.

Our experts tell their secrets

Patrick doesn’t just favor American cheeses. Another spring favorite is Rove des Garrigues from Provence where goats graze on wild lavender and other herbs. “They yield a small amount of very potent milk,” he says.

Jesi’s spring dreams also include goat cheeses with “bloomy rinds” and hints of flowering herbs. Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery’s Coupole is a winner at her Friday evening tastings, she says. She tries to have a unifying theme each week, such as French or local cheeses. Jesi has found that people love to taste blue cheeses. A stunning Point Reyes Blue from California calls to her  “because this to me tastes like the ocean.” And she keeps a whole shelf of blues in her densely-packed cheese case. “My problem is that I can’t buy everything I want” to offer customers, she laments.

Both Patrick and Jesi work hard to make sure Savenor’s cheeses are at their best — and to help you find the cheese of your dreams!!

Perfect pairings
Patrick’s Picks:
Tomme Fleur Verte — A very fresh goat cheese from France pressed with tarragon, parsley, and chervil.
Hudson Valley Camembert– A beautifully creamy sheep’s milk  from upstate New York.
Tarentaise– A Vermont Alpine cheese of cow’s milk that complements cured salami.
Lazy Lady “Sweet Emotions”– A cow and goat’s milk that is soft and delightfully creamy.
With the cheeses, Patrick would serve caramelized pecans, fresh berries, and muscat grapes plus crusty baguettes.

Jesi’s Picks:
 Point Reyes Blue –From California, a cow’s milk blue cheese aged five months with a creamy finish and slightly crumbly texture.
Blue Ledge Farm Lake’s Edge — A fresh and irresistible goat cheese  delicately veined with ash.
Mt. Alice — A creamy Camembert-style cheese from the Von Trapp brothers in Vermont.
Beehive– A cheddar-style cow’s milk cheese, rubbed with sea salt and honey.
Jesi  would add some jam, such as Doves & Figs Picnic in Paris, a strawberry, orange, apple and lavender jam made in Arlington. Along with that, she’d serve Marcona almonds, and some baguettes.

When you get them from Savenor’s we will clean them for you on the spot. We highly recommend getting them the day you are going to serve them! I f you would like to learn to clean, our butchers will show you how. There are a few steps and tools you need: sharp kitchen shears, sharp clean chefs knife and a good cutting board.

1. Face: Carefully snip or cut the “face” off. Just trim the eyes and front tip so that there is a clean line across (we are talking 1/4-1/2  inch here)

2. Gills: there are two flaps on top. Lift each one and simply wipe away the small stringy pieces with your thumb.

3. Apron: flip the crab and you will see a tail or “apron”. this is another simple snip or cut away. Some people like to keep it on, whatever you choose is okay.

Finally give the crab a nice rinse to make sure there is no sand then pat dry. For the simplest preparation;  dredge crabs in salted and peppered flour (throw in some cornmeal if you’re wanting more crunch) warm some butter and olive oil till bubbling then fry the top side for about 4 minutes then flip and fry the other for 4 minutes. Remove and serve with a nice Remoulade , a wedge of lemon and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or Reisling. Enjoy it, you just made a masterpiece!